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Linseed Oil Paints

Selder linseed oil paints remain durable and fine when you prime and paint according to the work manual and perform the simple maintenance measures described there.

We manufacture the paints as zinc based primer, semi-gloss and semi-matt topcoat, white and tinting bases A-, B- and C for tinting with certified and modern pigments.

The paints are tinted to the desired NCS, RAL and our own colors on modern machines that use our tinting system. The ordered shade is identical from delivery to delivery.

The paints are applied:

  • outdoors and indoors on all surfaces - from wood to metal
  • usually one coat of primer and two coats of topcoat.
  • with a light hand with a brush, with a sprayer or with a roller.
  • to covering layers. One liter of paint then covers 8 - 14 m² per coat depending on the substrate and each dried coat of paint is 70 - 120 μm (0.07 - 0.12 mm) thick.

The paints dry in less than 24 hours at 20 °C and good ventilation.

The white paints are packed in 0.5-, 1- and 5 litre tin cans, the primer and the tinting bases in 0.45, 0.9 and 4.5 litre tin cans to leave room for tinting pastes. Where to buy.

Video: Painting  a wooden facade with Selder linseed oil paint. Swedish spoken.
Video: Painting an indoor panel with Selder linseed oil paint. Swedish spoken.

Rich, durable and mould resistant

The paints contain a lot of pigment – a brushstroke of paint covers a large area. The viscosity of the colors is nevertheless optimal as the pigment is extremely finely divided.

The binder - linseed oil from which the non-drying ingredients have been removed with our unique refining method – is biologically non-degradable and water-repellent. It penetrates the substrate and dries by a reaction with the oxygen in the air to linoxyn, a natural polymer with excellent adhesion.

Our linseed oil paints adhere permanently and "breathe", i. e., lets water vapor through but not liquid water. Therefore, condensate does not collect under the paint layer and the paint does not flake off.

Unlimited lifespan with easy maintenance

Our paints age as the molecular chains in the polymerized binder are slowly broken down by UV radiation. When this happens, after a couple of decades in shady locations in the North down to after a few years in sun-drenched locations in the tropics, the surface becomes dull and fades; the paint becomes "chalky".
A thin layer of LINSEED VARNISH OIL replaces the lost binder and instantly gives the surface its original color and shine. With this simple maintenance measure, the life of the paints is unlimited.
If maintenance is neglected for a long time, cracks eventually form in the paint layer - a typical crocodile skin pattern is formed, and individual squares of paint begin to come loose from the substrate. Such paint surfaces from the first half of the 20th century are not uncommon.

Download the work manual in PDF here or read it below.
The Technical Datasheet and the Safety Datasheet for each paint is under the heading ”Datasheets” in the main menu.

SELDER & COMPANY AB
WORK MANUAL FOR LINSEED OIL PAINTS

The work differs significantly both from painting with synthetic paints and with other linseed oil paints. READ CAREFULLY FOR A GOOD RESULT.
First read the summary and then check the chapters that are of relevance to you by clicking the respective headlines in the TABLE OF CONTENTS below.

SUMMARY

Selder's linseed oil paints remain durable and fine practically forever when you prime and paint as described in this work manual and perform the simple maintenance measures described below. The paints are tinted to the desired NCS, RAL and our own colours on modern machines that use our tinting system.

The ordered colour is identical from delivery to deliver

They can be painted with a brush, sprayer or roller on any surface - from wood to metal.

Paint only on a dry substrate; on wood with a maximum moisture content of 12 %, i. e., air dry.

Seal knots and resin pockets on with SHELLAC before any further treatment of wood.

Impregnate wood in exposed locations outdoors with warm PRIMER OIL before priming with LINSEED OIL PAINT PRIMER.

Make sure that water does not get into the substrate and affects the painted surface from the back. Water in the substrate and movements in wood due to significant variations in moisture cause even linseed oil paint to flake off.

Saturate porous substrates with PRIMER OIL or LINSEED VARNISH OIL before priming with LINSEED OIL PAINT PRIMER. Otherwise too much binder is absorbed into the substrate and too little is left in the pigment, the optical properties of the paint change, the colour fades and becomes matte and often blotchy.

First paint a covering but not thick coat of LINSEED OIL PAINT PRIMER, i.e., of 70-120 μm (0.07-0.12 mm) thickness, which results in a consumption of one litre for 8–14 m² per coat depending on the substrate. It adheres particularly well as it is especially greasy, and it prevents the growth of mould, algae and lichens for decades on the finished paint surface as it contains 0.5 kg of zinc oxide / litre. However, it is not as weatherproof as the topcoat paints.
Let the paint dry thoroughly between coats.

The paint dries within 24 hours at 20 °C / 68 °F and good ventilation; dark, clear shades slightly slower.

Then paint two covering coats of LINSEED OIL PAINT SEMI-GLOSS or LINSEED OIL PAINT HALF SHEEN of similar thickness, white or tinted to the desired hue.

Wash brushes, tools and utensils with strong soft soap before the paint dries.
Rinse sprayers with white spirit.

WARNING: RISK OF SELF-IGNITION The paint contains oxidizing fatty acids. Cloths and other porous materials moist with paint must be immersed in water without delay. Painted or oil treated surfaces do not ignite spontaneously - the risk only applies to fibrous materials.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

PRE-TREATING THE SUBSTRATE

WHY PRE-TREAT (click to read the chapter)

CLEAN THE SUBSTRATE (click to read the chapter)

SEAL KNOTS AND RESIN POCKETS WITH SHELLAC (click to read the chapter)

SURFACES OF UNTREATED SOFTWOOD AND HARDWOOD IN PROTECTED LOCATIONS (click to read the chapter)

OLD PAINTED SURFACES TO WHICH THE PAINT STILL ADHERES, STUCCO AND CONCRETE (click to read the chapter)

SURFACES FROM WHICH THE PAINT HAS BEEN REMOVED WITH A HOT AIR GUN OR AN IR HEATER (click to read the chapter)

MDF BOARDS, PRESSURE IMPREGNATED WOOD, POROUS ROOFING TILES OF FIBRE CEMENT OR CONCRETE (click to read the chapter)

WOOD IN EXPOSED LOCATIONS OUTDOORS (click to read the chapter)

RUSTED (CORRODED) METAL (click to read the chapter)

GALVANIZED, PLASTIC LAMINATED TIN ROOF (click to read the chapter)

CLEAN METAL (click to read the chapter)

GLASS (click to read the chapter)

PAINT WITH A FINE AND DURABLE RESULT

GENERAL (click to read the chapter)

HALF SHEEN (HM) OR SEMI-GLOSS (HB) TOPCOAT (click to read the chapter)

MIX SO THAT THE PAINT BECOMES HOMOGENOUS (click to read the chapter)

DON’T DILUTE THE PAINT (click to read the chapter)

PAINT CORRECTLY WITH A BRUSH (click to read the chapter)

PAINT SMOOTH SURFACES WITH A FINE RESULT (click to read the chapter)

PAINTING WITH A SPRAYER OR A ROLLER (click to read the chapter)

THE DRYING TIME VARIES (click to read the chapter)

LINSEED OIL PAINT HARDENS SLOWLY AFTER IT HAS DRIED (click to read the chapter)

MAINTENANCE (click to read the chapter)